We Sell Our PedalBoards In 3 Levels :
Level 1 –
We sell board/case packages
or boards w/ no case (See The Boards for Pricing)
Level 2 –
We sell board/case prepped with power supplies and wiring accessories for the customer
Side A/C & Power Supply Detail :
When prepping a board, the customer tells us what they need for power.
T-Trash sells and installs the Voodoo Lab power supplies. (PP-2+ – ISO
5 & PP-Digital)
Many customers already own power supplies and opt to send these to
TT for installation, as the customer must have knowledge on how to hardwire
your power supply to the side a/c.
It does require ‘you’ to cut and strip the a/c cable and hardwire
into the side a/c
T-Trash only gives advice on spec’ing power for the customer in Level
3, when we are wiring the entire board
The customer also lets us know what side of the board that they want the
main (male) and courtesy (female) a/c installed
Side-Mount Jacks Detail :
Side-Mount jacks for input/output/stereo/fx send/return/midi/xlr -
etc…
The customer lets us know what side of the board they want them installed
on and if they are part only -$20.00 each for installed but not wired Neutrik
- or if you want us to pre-solder them - (we solder Mogami – Evidence
Monorail or George L’s cable, 6” inches longer than the width
of your board when ordering them ‘wired’) - $30.00 each for
wired Neutrik
Wired Neutrik Detail :
Once you have the prepped board in front of you, you are required
to drill holes in the top, route the cable through and build the plug
on top to finish -
It is safe to drill through the Veltop to finish the wired Neutriks,
but this will have to be redone every time you replace your Veltop
as mentioned in the FAQ’s Section - Why T-Trash Only Custom Wires On Hardtops or
Glowtops and Not On Veltop Pedalboards :
Many customers also send us their loopers, a/b boxes etc… to
install as part of a prepped board – this way, they only have
to send/return & run d/c out to each pedal, making the finish of
the build much easier for the novice.
The prepped board pictured not only illustrates ¼” Neutriks,
and a power supply mounted and wired to side & top a/c’s,
but also has the Large hole cut in the Hardtop for ease of pulling d/c
cables out to each pedal – Hardtops are generally sold w/o the
top hole cut, but if the customer wants this feature, T-Trash will add
for free. All Veltop boards come stock w/ the Large top hole
 |
For this player, we prep’d his board so when he recieved it,
it was a breeze to finish the wiring.
We installed (1) Main A/C - (2) Courtesy A/C’s (1) Top and (1)
side (This is an extra A/C’s for pedals that need A/C power - you
can plug your amp in here too)
We hard wired his power supplies to the side A/C. With these accessories
he only has to plug in the x-cord to the wall and all of the A/C & D/C
are ready to go.
We installed 3 Neutrik locking 1/4” plugs - Guitar ‘IN’ on
the right - Stereo ‘OUT’ on the left.
He sent us his True By-Pass loop boxes and we installed them with audio
and power.
Voila! He only has to build his audio cables and run his D/C cables to
each pedal and within a few hours, he has professional results.
|
|
|
We also sell the rest of the parts needed to assemble your board as seen on the T-Trash website – see Custom Wiring & Accessory Page for pricing.
Level 3 –
Custom Wired Boards – Available for USA & Canada
You send your pedals to Trailer Trash Pedalboards for the full wiring
treatment – we design your signal flow, help you order the right
looper, spec your power etc… the end result is seen all over
the T-Trash website – we have designed & custom wired them
all !!!
Turn around times vary due to size of jobs, but we can flip most boards
in 2- 3 days, and usually no more than 4 days even on the big scary
40x18’s –
Your name goes into our queue for wiring based on when we receive a
deposit for order – the deposit for a custom wired board is the
cost of the board/case only – the balance is billed at the end
of the job before shipping to the customer.
As part of our standard procedure, we speak to each customer many
times during the build and also take pictures of the layout of the
board and send to you for approval before we start wiring – It’s
a very tedious process, with excellent & proven results
When the finished board comes to you, all you have to do is open the
case, plug in your instrument, amp and a/c and you’re jammin’ with
a sparkling hot clean signal.
Interested in ordering a custom wired Trailer Trash Pedalboard?
If you want to get a custom wired board, the first step is to send us a pic of your pedals laid out on a template of a (size board that we make).
Pictured is an example of a 24"x12" template that a customer (Adam Scovanner) sent to us to start a custom wired order:
This was Adam's board when we were finished:
Please leave enough room to plug the cables in. We always require this step. It helps us to determine if we can do our quality of wiring on a the size board that you want to build. We always work with the customer on final layout and signal flow, but the initial pic lets us see what we are getting ourselves into…..
All orders for custom wired boards are taken over the phone.
There are many details to discuss when building these custom boards so the phone works best for us.
Please call 9-5 Mountain Time Monday through Friday. If you miss us, please leave a message. We have our hands full most of the time and rely on our answering service.
Will Trailer Trash fix my non-working pedal?
No, we don't do any kind of tech work, only custom-wired pedalboards. We ask that you test all of your pedals before sending them to T-Trash for installation. We also ask that when you order a custom wired pedalboard, that you agree that all of your pedalboard contents have been checked and are in 100% working order, clearing Trailer Trash of any liability for any non-working pedals. Any pedals shipped to T-Trash that do not work will unfortunately delay the process. (Your non-working pedals will be returned to you until they are in usable condition.)
WARNING : WARNING : WARNING : WARNING :
Do not use pedalboard when stage is wet – if pedalboard board
gets wet, completely dry before using. If using an ATA Case make
sure the foam inside is dry before plugging in and using pedalboard –
Do Not Use out in Your Lawn, Yard, Grass etc… unless the
pedalboard is in the tray of the ATA case as there can be moisture
lurking – Use your pedalboard only on hard dry surfaces.
 |
 |
Why a Shock Mount ATA case?
There are other pedalboards on the market that are designed so that the
'case' is the 'pedalboard'.
This pedalboard/case all in one design allows the pedalboard contents
to suffer all of the shock, bumps, drops and slams from typical tour
use, simply because your pedals are mounted to the actual case.
In true innovative Trailer Trash fashion, we have designed a pedalboard
that will rest in a foamed ATA tray. Our boards are designed either
to take out of the tray, or you can set the ATA case down on the stage,
undo the butterfly latches, lift off the lid, plug in your board, play
a show, while still having it protected by the foamed ATA tray. Fast, easy, and reliable.
As seen in the picture above, the front and the back of the board rest on the foam. By relieving the foam from the center of the tray, we have created more room for the power supplies to breathe.
|
|
|
|
Vel-Top versus Hard-Top.
The Vel-Tops are for the player who needs to change their boxes around quickly. It is a Velcro style product that really holds the pedals well, but has flexibility for quick changes.
Why T-Trash Only Custom Wires On Hardtops or Glowtops and Not
On Veltop Pedalboards -
The reason for this is a Veltop will eventually wear out –
It’s just the nature of this style product.
You can get approx 100 sticks in one spot – we do sell the
replacement tops, which is a cool feature on T-Trash boards. You
can install new tops to refresh your board when needed – (we
sell) (if you are not removing your pedals all the time, then the
Veltop will not wear out)
The downside, is if you take the time to drill and do board-thru
wiring like T-Trash, when the Veltop wears out and you need a fresh
top, you have to redo all of your wiring - Veltops were originally
meant for ‘above board wiring’ and using the top hole
to pull the d/c cables out to each pedal from the power supply
mounted below -
If you want to do a nice hard-wired pedalboard, use our Hardtop
or Glowtop w/Tour Grade Velcro. The Tour Grade Velcro we use never
wears out, and if you need to remove it to move a pedal, the Velcro
adhesive will come off nice and clean by soaking the residue left
behind in mineral spirits – This, when left to soak long
enough, will peel off with ease leaving your Hardtop in new condition,
with no scraping required. Just wipe with denatured alcohol for
final cleaning. Veltops work great for the player who likes to
change out pedals, and also great for a studio that has pedals
coming & going on a per song basis.
All Tops Are Replaceable For The Life Of Your T-Trash Pedalboard
:
Yes, you can buy a new Veltop, or Hardtop. Or, you can send your
original Veltop or Hardtop board back to T-Trash and we can upgrade
to a Glowtop.
Being able to refresh your pedalboard for the life of the board
is worth the price of admission. This is one of the best features
w/ Trailer Trash Pedalboards – Think about it. You can ‘Swiss-cheese’ the
heck out of your top with drilling etc…use it like that
for a few years, and when you get bored or get a new job that needs
different pedals, Viola, just replace the top and you have a new
board to work with.
24x12 – 18x16 = $20.00
28x16 – 30x18 = $25.00
36x18 – 40x18 = $35.00
Please call to order
Power Supplies Fit Under Pro Series T-Trash Pedalboards :
T-Trash’s unique pedalboard design was the 1st pedalboard in
mainstream market that was designed for power supplies to mount under
the board – this forced companies to redesign to be able to
keep pace w/ the T-Trash cutting edge design.
We haven’t found any power supplies available on the market
that won’t fit under a T-Trash Pro Series Pedalboard
This has included : Voodoo Lab - MXR MC403 CAE Power System – TRex – BBE – Palmer – G-Labs
- VHT Valvulator – JuiceBox – DC Brick - etc…
We also mount most Wireless units under our boards as well as Buffers & FX
pedals
All of the information listed above has applied to our ProSeries 28"x16", 30"x18", 36"x18", 40"x18" boards. The 24"x12" ProSeries PedalBoard is new in our product line so up to this time we have only installed Pedal Power 2, ISO-5, PP-Digital, Supacharger, and T-Rex. We know for sure that a VHT Valvulator won't fit under a 24"x12". But we are pretty sure that a MXR MC403 will fit, but we haven't had a chance to install one yet. We will update this once we know.
* Voodoo Lab - MXR MC403 CAE Power System – TRex – BBE – Palmer – G-Labs - VHT Valvulator – JuiceBox – DC Brick – these are all registered trademarks of these companies. Trailer Trash PedalBoards is in no way affiliated with any of these companies.
How to Install Pedals and Power Supplies Using Our Tour Grade Velcro
:
When T-Trash installs your pedals on a Hardtop or Glowtop, we use
our Tour Grade Velcro –
We can put 2 – 2” strips on a Boss size pedal, snap it
to a Hardtop or Glowtop and pickup a 90lbs. pedalboard by lifting
only w/ that one pedal… insane holding power.
For best results, you must remove all rubber feet, pads etc… from
the bottom of all boxes to be installed.
Once the bottom of the box has been cleaned, use a little denatured
alcohol to wipe away any residue (grease from hands etc..)
This will allow the velcro to get a nice clean stick.
We never put Velcro down the center of any pedal, it allows the
pedal to rock and that’s not good for the long haul as your
wiring will be moving as well. Instead, go to the outside edge and
install to the left & right
or top & bottom of the short side of the rectangle shaped box.
This will hold your pedal & wiring nice and solid, with no rocking. Pre-cut the male & female sides to match. When you are ready to stick to the pedal, peel the backing off the
male side Velcro to expose the adhesive, and use a heat gun or hair
dryer to warm the adhesive side until it turns glossy (10-30 seconds).
Heating makes the adhesive side turn to a glossy/liquid surface – stick
the male side to the pedal, then do the same w/ the female side and
stick it to the correct spot on the board that you have pre-marked.
The reason for heating… ?? it seals the edges. If the edges
of the Tour Grade Velcro are not sealed, the dust will slowly start
working it’s way under the Velcro and will cause it to eventually
fail and let go. All the same heating techniques are used for installing components
under the T-Trash board -
Once you have both sides of the Velcro stuck, then place the pedal
over the Velcro on the board and snap it together. This can require
a pretty aggressive ‘push with the palms’ to get the
Velcro to completely snap together, but once it is installed, it
is on there… you will have to use a flat-bade screwdriver
to wedge in between the Velcro and gently pry up and apart to remove
the pedal –
When T-Trash installs heavy pedals like wahs or power supplies,
we install/stick the male side Velcro first. Then we snap all the
female side to the male side – then we peel & heat the
female side – Once it has turned glossy, we place the entire
pedal/power supply in its spot that we have pre-marked. We use approx. 1 foot of T-Grade Velcro on a wah or power supply.
Trying to get all snapped together with this much Velcro can be near
impossible, so by pre-snapping both sides of Velcro first and setting
the box in it’s place while the Velcro is heated and glossy,
avoids the tough snapping process and will guarantee a solid mount. We have boards on tour all over the world that are assembled using
this Velcro method with great success !
Correct Board Size –
Trailer Trash Pedalboards does not recommend the size of pedalboard
needed, because we don’t have your pedals in our shop to
layout & measure. Please take the time to measure out an area
of a size board that we make –
24x12 – 28x16 – 30x18 – 36x18 – 40x18
(no custom sizes available)
If you need a board bigger than 40x18, we suggest building 2 smaller
boards that talk to each other. This way you as (1) person can actually
pickup and move your board. Pedalboards bigger than 40x18 will be
too much size/weight for one person to move without hassle
Be meticulous in your board measuring process and allow enough room
for all the pedals to be plugged in w/ audio and power plugs to be
the most accurate.
The outside edge of the pedalboards are the dimensions listed above –
For actual top dimensions :
Subtract 5/8” from the Left – Right & Front (audience
side)
Run the dimension flush on the side at your feet, as there is no
5/8” lip there (see pics on website) (the 5/8” lip goes
around the 3 sides, this is where the fasteners and handles bolt
through
OD = Outside Dimension
ID = Inside Dimension
24x12 OD = 22 ¾” x 11 3/8” ID
28x16 OD = 26 ¾” x 15 3/8” ID
30x18 OD = 28 ¾” x 17 3/8” ID
36x18 OD = 34 ¾” x 17 3/8” ID
40x18 OD = 38 ¾” x 17 3/8” ID
(these dimensions can vary slightly, but will be within approx.
1/8”)
However, the 5/8” loss really doesn’t come into play
as the audio & d/c plugs can hang over the 5/8” lip. You
really do get most of the outside dimension of the board. (This is
illustrated all over the T-Trash website on the boards that we have
custom wired)
Return policy -
We don’t accept returns on our boards, so please make sure
you measure for your size and triple check to be sure your custom
idea will fit on the size that you have ordered
We are a micro-size company so all pedalboards/cases & parts
that ship from our shop are counted & packed by the same person
before shipping – this makes for great accuracy on orders